I’ll be honest; I didn’t do much research on Albania going in. It was the second stop on my Balkans and Eastern Mediterranean route, and I thought of it simply as a logistical bridge between Montenegro and Greece.
Eight days later, Albania became a country that’s hard to forget. The scenery blew me away, from glassy alpine lakes to dramatic Riviera cliffs. In just over a week, I paddleboarded on crystal clear Lake Komani, explored a UNESCO-listed hilltop town of Gjirokastër, and found what might be the most picturesque beach in Himarë. Also, Albanians might be the warmest people I’ve met during my travels.
Table of Contents
Albania Itinerary At a Glance
This itinerary runs north to south. You start in Shkodër, right near the Montenegro border, then head inland to Lake Koman before cutting down through Tiranë and Gjirokastër, and finishing on the coast in Sarandë. It’s a logical flow: no backtracking or wasted travel days. If you’re continuing to Greece like I did, Sarandë is the perfect exit point; the ferry to the Greek island of Corfu takes under two hours.
Here’s the itinerary broken down day by day.
| Day | Location | Activities |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Shkodër | Explore town by foot or bike |
| Day 2 | Lake Koman | Water activities on the lake |
| Day 3 | Lake Koman | Shala River day trip |
| Day 4 | Tiranë | Mid-trip reset |
| Day 5 | Gjirokastër | Explore UNESCO Old Town |
| Day 6 | Sarandë | Explore seaside promenade |
| Day 7 | Sarandë | Beach club |
| Day 8 | Sarandë | Himarë day trip |
This itinerary moves fast. In a span of eight days, you’re going between five different cities. You’re rarely in one place for more than two nights, which means a lot of packing, unpacking, and figuring out the next bus. That’s the tradeoff: you get to see a huge range of what Albania has to offer, but you won’t have much downtime to sit and breathe. If you’re the type who likes to linger, consider cutting Gjirokastër or skipping the Himarë day trip and spending that time in Sarandë instead.
Albania Budget Overview
I spent $848 on this Albania trip in July (peak season), traveling with a friend and splitting accommodation and taxi costs.
This Albania cost breakdown does not include airfare, since I visited the country as part of a broader month-long Balkans and Eastern Mediterranean itinerary. I arrived in Albania overland from Montenegro. If you’re doing Albania as a standalone trip, you’ll most likely fly into Tiranë, the country’s capital.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Shkodër
Arriving in Shkodër from Montenegro: If you’re coming from Montenegro, the best way to reach Shkodër is to take the bus from Kotor or Budva. The journey takes about 4-5 hours including a painless border crossing. Even during peak summer, it only took around 15 minutes for everyone on the bus to get their documents checked.
Arriving in Shkodër from Tiranë: If you’re starting your trip in Tiranë, you’ll want to take a bus to Shkodër. See the how to get around Albania section for more details on navigating public transportation.
Once you’re in Shkodër, check in, grab lunch, and explore the charming historic town. Every evening, the city pours onto the main pedestrian boulevard for a collective evening stroll known as Xhiro. It was so wholesome seeing locals of all ages walking, chatting, and simply being together. It’s a tradition across Albania, but Shkodër does it particularly well.
If you have the time and energy, consider biking around Lake Shkodër at sunset and visit the dramatic hilltop ruins of Rozafa Castle. Perched on a rocky hill just outside the city center, the fortress offers panoramic views over the surrounding mountains.
Day 2: Lake Koman
The drive from Shkodër to Lake Koman takes about two hours. This lake is one of the most beautiful ones I’ve been to. I loved the peaceful vibe, the mountain reflections, and the calm water. Our guesthouse provided us with paddleboards, and we spent the whole afternoon out in the water.
What stood out most from my time in Albania was the hospitality, and we felt it deeply in Lake Koman. Don’t skip getting to know your guesthouse hosts; it really does adds to the experience. We spent a lot of time chatting with ours, and the stay felt more personal because of it. If your guesthouse offers dinner, don’t skip it! I loved how all dishes use fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
Day 3: Shala River
The boat ride down the Shala River through the gorge is half the experience itself: sheer limestone walls, clear blue water, and mountains in the background. It kind of reminded me of Ninh Binh in Vietnam. Once you arrive, dip your feet in the river, read, and nap. There are vendors that offer activities like kayaking and ziplining, but we just chose to take it easy.
Day 4: Tiranë
The journey from Lake Koman to Tiranë takes around 5 hours. Make sure to ask the bus driver to drop you inside the city center if possible. We didn’t do this, so we got dropped off just outside of it and had to take a local bus in. Simply ask a local which bus you should board, and make sure to have cash on hand. Note that you don’t pay when you board; an attendant will walk down the aisle mid-route to sell you a ticket.
Tiranë is more cosmopolitan than you might expect. This is the only “big city” of the trip, so take advantage. For me, that meant doing laundry, enjoying a cup of specialty coffee, and eating some much needed Japanese food (the Asian food withdrawals were kicking in). Tiranë also has a surprisingly creative public art scene, especially around the Blloku neighborhood.
Day 5: Gjirokastër
The bus ride from Gjirokastër to Tiranë is the longest leg of this trip, coming in at about 4 hours. There’s no AC in many vans, so be sure to dress light and bring lots of water.
Gjirokastër is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it definitely earns that title. I appreciate how the old stone houses, narrow cobblestone streets, and fortress vibes have been well-preserved. It’s a great example of how Ottoman-era architecture mixes with local styles in the Balkans, and you can still see that heritage in places like Gjirokastër Castle.
The town also has a bazaar offering an extensive selection of local products like raki and and artisanal crafts. If you’re looking to buy some souvenirs, this is the place.
Day 6: Sarandë
The drive from Gjirokastër to Sarandë takes about an hour along a coastal road that gets dramatically scenic toward the end. Sarandë sits on a crescent bay and functions as Albania’s beach capital in the south. Day 6 is an easy arrival day. Get settled, walk the waterfront, and enjoy a nice seafood dinner.
Day 7: Beach Club
Today is a much needed rest day, especially since you’ve been moving from one place to another for the last three days. Find a beach club on the Sarandë waterfront, claim a sun bed, and enjoy the laid back atmosphere. We really liked Crystal Island Beach Club since it was one of the more affordable options in the area, offering plenty of seating choices and a pebble beach great for swimming.
We used this entire day to relax, but if you want something more active, consider these activities:
- Grab drinks at Lekursi Castle for sunset, where you’ll get panoramic views over the Albanian Riviera.
- Book a boat ride (such as this one) along the coast to see hidden coves and sea caves.
Day 8: Himarë
Himarë is about an hour up the coast from Sarandë along the Albanian Riviera and makes for a great day trip. We checked out Filikuri Beach, one of the most picturesque beaches I’ve seen. Think crystal clear turquoise water and dramatic cliffs. It’s a bit of a hike to get there, requiring you to scale down a rock face with the help of a rope. But trust me, the payoff is worth it.
If you don’t want to make the journey all the way Himarë, here are some other options closer to Sarandë:
- Take a short trip to the beaches of Ksamil, known for their turquoise water and small offshore islands.
- Visit Butrint National Park, an ancient Greek and Roman archaeological site set in a beautiful lagoon.
Day 9: Departure
If Albania is a standalone trip, you’ll want to take a bus back to Tiranë for your flight out. If you’re following my 28-day itinerary, you’ll want to board a ferry over to Corfu, Greece. Check out my Greece itinerary here.
How to Get Around Albania (No Car Required)
The trickiest part about this Albania itinerary is figuring out public transportation, especially if you choose to not rent a car like us. However, it’s doable if you plan ahead! We relied on three main modes of transportation to get between cities: buses, furgons (shared minivans) and taxis.
| Route | Transport | Travel Time | Cost | How to Book |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kotor → Shkodër | 🚌 Bus | 4h 30m | $28 | At Kotor Bus Station |
| Shkodër → Komani Lake | 🚐 Furgon | 2h | $10 | Through your accommodation |
| Komani Lake → Tiranë | 🚌 Bus | 5h | $15 | Through your accommodation |
| Tiranë → Gjirokastër | 🚌 Bus | 4h | $15 | On Gjirafa Travel website |
| Gjirokastër → Sarandë | 🚌 Bus | 1h | $6 | On Gjirafa Travel website |
| Sarandë → Himarë | 🚐 Furgon | 1h 30m | $10 | At Sarandë bus station |
| Himarë → Sarandë | 🚕 Taxi | 1h 15m | $72 | Negotiate price with taxi driver |
| Sarandë → Corfu | ⛴️ Ferry | 1h 40m | $17 | On Ferry Hopper website |
Getting around by buses and furgons
Albania’s intercity transport runs on a mix of full-size buses and shared minivans called furgons. They’re affordable and cover all routes on this itinerary.
Useful things to know:
- Schedules are loose. Don’t rely on a Google review photo that someone posted two years ago. Ask your accommodation for the most current departure times.
- Book bus tickets in advance, especially for longer rides, because they may sell out. You can either buy these tickets directly at the bus station (no processing fee) or online via Gjirafa Travel (usually with a small fee).
- When traveling to and from Lake Koman, the easiest option is to ask your accommodation to arrange transportation for you. Our hosts in Shkoder set us up with an early morning minivan to the lake. Then the ones in Lake Koman arranged transportation for our Shala River day trip as well as to Tiranë.
- Furgons often leave when full, instead of exactly at the scheduled departure time. For example, our furgon from Sarandë to Himarë left five minutes early once it filled up. Showing up earlier is better.
- Furgons, especially ones later in the day, are not always reliable. For example, we had planned on taking the last furgon from Himarë back to Sarandë, but it never showed up. Budget for the occasional (pricey) taxi ride.
Getting around by taxi
We occasionally used taxis to travel within the city, such as from our accommodation to the bus station. Taxis can be found all over, but make sure to always agree on a price upfront, or ask the driver to use the meter. We paid between 700-1100 ALL ($8-13) for these rides.
Where to Stay in Albania
In bigger cities like Tirana and Sarandë, we stayed in AirBnBs. In smaller towns like Shkodër and Gjirokastër, we stayed in small family-run lodging. The total cost for accommodation was $558, which I split with a friend ($279 per person).
| Location | Nights | Total Cost | Cost Per Night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shkodër | 1 | $46 | $46 |
| Lake Koman | 2 | $161 | $81 |
| Tiranë | 1 | $51 | $51 |
| Gjirokastër | 1 | $60 | $60 |
| Sarandë | 3 | $240 | $80 |
A few useful things to note when booking Lake Koman accommodation:
- There are only a handful of guesthouses on or around the lake, so accommodation fills up quickly. Be sure to book well in advance, especially during the summer. I loved my stay at Borealis Guest House. The owners were super welcoming, and the home-cooked meal was delicious.
- Some of the accommodations require a bit of walking to get to. Our guesthouse, for example, was about a 5–10 minute walk downhill from the main road. The path was quite steep, which can be challenging if you’re carrying heavy luggage. If accessibility is a concern, it’s a good idea to check with your accommodation before booking.
What to Eat in Albania
Albanian food sits at the crossroads of Mediterranean and Balkan cooking. Fresh ingredients, family recipes, and generous portions are the norm.
- Tave kosi: Baked lamb with yogurt and eggs, widely considered one of Albania’s most iconic comfort dishes.
- Fërgesë: Rich baked dish of peppers, tomatoes, and creamy cottage cheese that originated in Tiranë.
- Meatballs (qofte): Classic Balkan staple you’ll find at almost every restaurant.
- Fresh seafood: Coastal cities like Sarandë and Himarë do seafood extremely well. You can’t go wrong with the catch of the day.
- Raki: Albania’s national spirit, made from grapes or plums. Strong, warming, and frequently offered on the house.
For a taste of these traditional dishes, I highly recommend The Barrels Ms in Gjirokastër. The food was delicious, and the vineyard views made the setting feel extra special. Plus, the owners were super kind and even let us pick some plums from their tree to take home!
What to budget: A traditional sit-down meal runs $10–20 per person at most local restaurants.
What to Do If You Have Extra Time in Albania
If you have time to spare in Albania, consider these add-ons:
- Valbona Valley: The Albanian Alps in the north are some of the most spectacular hiking terrain in the Balkans. Add 2–3 days if you can.
- Berat: Another UNESCO-listed Ottoman hilltop town, often compared to Gjirokastër but with a different character. An easy stop between Tiranë and the south.
- Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër): A vivid natural spring near Sarandë, a popular day trip and worth it if you have a free morning. You can also stop by on your way from Gjirokastër to Sarandë.
What’s Up Next on This 1-Month Itinerary?
If you’re following my monthlong Balkans & Eastern Mediterranean route, the next stop is Greece, starting in Corfu (ferry from Sarandë).
Check out my Greece travel guide, where I break down ferry logistics and what to do in Athens and the Greek islands. Also check out the other countries on my month-long route:
- 1 Month Balkans and Eastern Mediterranean Itinerary
- 4 Days In Montenegro (Kotor, Budva, Perast)
- Top 5 Things To Do In Kotor
- 8 Days In Turkey (Fethiye, Capaddocia, Istanbul)
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Albania worth visiting?
Yes, without question. Albania is one of the most underrated countries in Europe, and I have a feeling it’ll blow up within the next few years. The people are incredibly warm and positive, the landscape is incredibly diverse (mountains, lakes, beaches, UNESCO towns), and prices are relatively affordable compared to other European countries.
Do I need a visa for Albania?
Most Western passport holders (US, EU, UK, etc.) can enter Albania visa-free for up to 90 days. Check the latest entry requirements for your specific passport before travel.
Is Albania safe?
Yes, I felt safe throughout the trip, including traveling at night and in smaller towns. Albania has a very low violent crime rate. The usual precautions (watch your belongings, be aware of your surroundings) apply.
What currency does Albania use?
Albanian lek (ALL). Cards are accepted in Tirana and at larger restaurants elsewhere, but cash is essential for transport, guesthouses, and smaller towns. Always withdraw before heading to Lake Komani or Gjirokastër.
What language is spoken in Albania?
Albanian (Shqip). English is widely spoken among younger people and in tourist areas. A translation app and a few basic phrases go a long way outside cities — faleminderit (fah-leh-min-DEH-rit) means “thank you” and goes a long way.
How do Albanian buses work?
A mix of full-size buses and furgons (shared minivans). Furgons leave when full, not precisely on a fixed timetable. Buy tickets at the station or on the Gjirafa website. Schedules are approximate. Build in buffer time and always check with your accommodation the night before.
What’s the best time to visit Albania?
May, June, and September are the sweet spots: warm enough for beaches, fewer crowds than peak summer, and lower accommodation prices. July and August are beautiful but busy and hot, especially on the Riviera. Book accommodation early for summer travel.
