At A Glance
Eight days in May 2025
| Day | Location | Attractions and Activities |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | Washington D.C. | Fly from D.C. to Cairo to Aswan |
| 1 | Nile Cruise | High Dam, Philae Temple |
| 2 | Nile Cruise | Abu Simbel, Kom Ombo Temple |
| 3 | Nile Cruise | Edfu Temple, Luxor Temple |
| 4 | Nile Cruise Luxor | Valley of the Kings, Temple of Hatshepsut, Karnak Temple Overnight in Luxor |
| 5 | Cairo | Fly from Luxor to Cairo |
| 6 | Cairo | Food tour |
| 7 | Cairo | Pyramids of Giza and Saqqara |
| 8 | Cairo | Egyptian Museum, Old Cairo tour |
Itinerary
Day 0: Flying to Egypt
The journey from Washington D.C. to Cairo was 11 hours long, and I was lucky enough to snag a points redemption in business class. The food was okay, but what made the whole experience was the lie-flat seat. It’s a game changer to just be able to spread your whole body out, and you have so much room to yourself. Also, the fact that you can get up as you please makes the whole flying experience so much better.
I was worried that I might not be able to make my connection to Aswan (which was in a different terminal) since my flight landed 40 minutes late. Thankfully, I made it through immigration and security pretty quickly. I had read that there was a bus taking me to the other terminal, but when I asked the guy at the tourist desk, he said that the bus wouldn’t come for another hour and that I needed to take a taxi for $10. Upon giving him the money, he complained that my $10 bill had a hole and asked me to pay with card. I didn’t look carefully at the screen, and it turned out that he actually charged me $17. As I was going through security, I was scammed again by the agent who found my gimbal “suspicious”. He wanted a “tip”, so I gave him $5 to let me through. Welcome to Egypt.
Days 1-4: Cruising up the Nile River
Immediately upon landing in Aswan, I got picked up to go to the High Dam as part of my four-day Nile River Cruise. I learned that the dam regulates annual floods, provides a steady supply of water, and generates electricity for much of Egypt. We then made our way to Philae Temple, the first of many temples on this cruise. In the afternoon, we had an option to visit the Nubian Village, but I decided to catch up on some much needed rest instead.
The next day started very early (3:30 AM) for the long drive to Abu Simbel. The temples, one for Ramses II and one for his wife Nefertari, were undeniably impressive, especially considering they had to be physically relocated due to rising waters. But the 8-hour round trip felt excessive for just a 90 minute visit. Later that day, I nearly missed the Kom Ombo temple tour due to poor communication from the guide (a recurring issue on this trip). Luckily, I made it in time for a peaceful sunset walk among ruins.
On the third morning, we visited Edfu Temple via a memorable (and smelly) horse carriage ride. It was massive and well-preserved, dedicated to the falcon god Horus. Sleep deprivation hit hard, so much of the day was a blur of naps and food. By evening, we arrived in Luxor and visited Luxor Temple. At this point, I started to become disengaged since I’m not a big history guy. To me, the temples started to look like one another, and I didn’t care too much about the story behind each one. I also hate to admit it, but the tour guide for my group was boring. The way he presented the information left much to be desired.
The following day brought us to the Valley of the Kings, which served as the burial ground for many of pharaohs. We also visited the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut and ended at the massive Karnak Temple, which finally recaptured some of the awe I had been missing. The scale of the monuments was mind-blowing, and thanks to the sweet Korean couple I met, I got some great photos too. Despite the exhaustion and sleep deprivation, I felt a sense of appreciation creeping in.
One of my worries during this cruise was that it would be lonely traveling by myself. But thankfully, that wasn’t the case! During dinner the first night, I was joined by a lively group of travelers—a soon to be doctor from Atlanta, a Jordanian solo traveler, and a Portuguese couple. It was great getting to know them over the next couple days, sharing many stories and laughs. These moments reminded me that the joy of travel often lies in small human connections.
The cruise ended in Luxor. I decided to stay the night there and woke up early to see the hot air balloons the next day.
Days 5-8: Exploring the chaos of Cairo
After taking a short flight to Cairo, I knocked out for 13 hours straight. You would have thought that I would have recovered from my sleep deprivation by now, but nope.
I took it easy the next day, doing laundry, getting a massage, and absorbing the organized chaos of Cairo. It was great to just sit at a café and people watch. I ended the day with a food tour, where I got a chance to try so many local dishes. My favorites were ta’ameya (falafel made from fava beans) and hawawshi (flatbread stuffed with minced meat). In addition to the delicious food, I appreciated how the local guide spoke honestly about life in Egypt, both the good as well as the bad.
The next day was the highlight of the trip: a full-day tour of the pyramids with Mohamed, the kind of guide who makes history come alive. He explained everything with charisma and clarity. We rode camels, saw the Sphinx, visited workshops, and had some great Egyptian food.
The contrast between this tour and the earlier ones was stark. It made me realize how important the right guide is and how much more fulfilling travel becomes when the storytelling matches the sights. I was so much more engaged during this archaeological visit than the ones on the cruise. You can book the tour with Mohamed through this AirBnB experience.
On my last day in Egypt, I wandered through the Zamalek neighborhood, trying some unique local dishes like stuffed pigeon and liver. The pigeon was flavorful, but the liver wasn’t my favorite. Since I had some extra time in the afternoon, I made a stop at the Egyptian Museum. The most interesting thing was seeing the preserved mummies.
The day ended with a tour of Old Cairo, where I got a glimpse of the Islamic architecture, the lively street atmosphere of Khan el-Khalili, and one of the most hilarious bargaining moments I’ve witnessed. There were these two girls in our group who were buying a souvenir from a street vendor. Unbeknownst to them, they were getting quoted an outrageous price and was about to buy it without a second thought. Luckily, our guide stepped in at the last moment. Upon hearing how much the price was, he shouted ‘la la la la la!’ (‘no no no no no!’ in Arabic) at the vendor. The girls then changed their tune real quick and yelled the same thing. Okay, it doesn’t sound funny when I explain it, so you’ll have to trust me. It’s one of those things where you had to be there.
The next day, I boarded a plane to my second African country: Tunisia!
Reflections
My experience in Egypt was a lot different than I imagined. I was hesitant to even visit the country since I had read countless negative reviews of those who had been before. I thought I would get hassled and scammed like crazy, but that wasn’t the case at all. I look back on my time in Egypt fondly.
This may be a hot take, but Cairo is one of my favorite cities. I loved the loud and chaotic atmosphere. It reminded me of Hanoi with the persistent noise from car horns and street vendors, as well as the challenge of crossing the street. I also found Cairo to be less hassle-y than expected. No one approached me to take me on a sketchy tour (like in Fes), nor did anyone give me false information about road closures (like in Marrakesh). The most hassle I experienced was from the vendors at Khan el-Khalili, and even that was harmless.
In addition, the people I met were kind. They may not always have a smile on their face, but they’re willing to go out of their way to help you. The Uber drivers were curious and chatty, asking me some personal questions, but mostly out of interest, not rudeness.
Of course, this is purely my experience, and I know it isn’t representative of the one most visitors have when they visit Egypt. It may very well be that I got lucky. I’d also like to acknowledge that my positive experience is in large part due to my privilege as a male traveler; I benefit from a level of freedom and ease that female travelers don’t always experience, particularly when it comes to harassment and aggressive attention in public spaces. I have to worry less about intrusive forms of attention, such as catcalling, staring, and following.
Here are some tips to make your Egypt trip a smooth and enjoyable one.
Manage your expectations
Yes, there will be pollution. Yes, there will be chaos, and the constant sensory stimulation can be overwhelming. Yes, government officials will try to scam you. Yes, locals will hassle you and demand you for a tip, but this reflects the economic pressures that Egyptians deal with more than anything. But if you’re willing to look past all that, you will experience a one-of-a-kind destination with rich history and vibrant culture.
Hire a guide
Having a great guide can turn an okay experience into a memorable one. Not only will they enrich your experience, tour guides can shield you from unwanted scammers and touts. This is especially true in touristy areas such as bazaars and markets.
Hail motorbikes
If you don’t mind risking your life, opt for a motorbike instead of a car when hailing ride share. This is especially true in Cairo, where the streets are narrow and congested. Motorbikes can weave in and out of traffic, as well as get into smaller roads that cars cannot, saving you a lot of time.